Matsumae Zuke - Traditional Foods in Japan | Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries

Fermented foods

HokkaidoMatsumae Zuke

Classification (Large)

Seafood products

Classification (Small)

Fishery fermented food

Main ingredients used

Japanese flying squid, kombu, soy sauce, sake, mirin, salt

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Region of inheritance

Donan region (southern Hokkaido), Matsumae Town

Product overview (special characteristics and types)

Matsumaezuke is a familiar fermented food that is also known as a preserved food for winter in Hokkaido. It consists of kombu, dried surumeika squid (Todarodes pacificus), and other foodstuffs, which are pickled in soy sauce, and was originally made by pickling these foods in salt rather than soy sauce. However, as Japanese taste preferences changed over time, the variety pickled in soy sauce is now the one most usually eaten. The more you chew surumeika and kombu, the tastier they become in your mouth. The sliminess of kombu and the crunchy texture of herring roe give the pickles a kick. Matsumaezuke with herring roe is one of the standard dishes served during New Year’s in Japan and is eaten as a lucky charm.

History and culture

Matsumaezuke is said to have originated in the Matsumae domain (modern-day Matsumae Town, Matsumae County, Hokkaido) in the Edo period. From the late Edo period to the Meiji period, herring fishing had reached its peak in the southern part of Hokkaido. Then, fishermen’s wives began to make pickled herring roe, which was cheap, surumeika, kombu, and other foodstuffs by pickling them in salt as a preserved food for winter. At the end of the Edo period, a fishing method called [tateami], which is the method of catching a school of fish by surrounding them with two ships, became popular and brought about overfishing of herring, plus changes in water temperature began to deter the herring’s spawning behavior. As a result, herring fishing followed a decline in the Showa period. Because of this, surumeika fishing became popular in Matsumae Town, and together with neighboring Fukushima Town, it became one of the largest surumeika catch landing sites in Japan. Thus, Matsumaezuke is now made mainly of surumeika and kombu as herring roe is currently expensive. It is believed that the first Matsumaezuke product was put on the market by Masao Kaito, president of Hakodate Yamagataya, in 1937, and then it spread throughout Japan.

Production method

Since cutting surumeika across the fibers makes it less chewy and ruins its texture, it is cut along the fibers into thin strips. Herring roe is desalted and its thin skin is removed. Then, it is drained and cut into bite-size pieces. Thin strips of surumeika, soy sauce, mirin (sweet sake used in cooking), sake, and salt are put into a container and kneaded until the surumeika froths. Kombu is cut into thin strips and herring roe are added, then it is pickled with seasonings for about one week. Other foodstuffs, such as sun-dried daikon radish, red pepper, yuzu citron skin, and carrot may be added.

Conservation and succession efforts

Matsumaezuke is presented as a souvenir or gift, and in Matsumae Town, there are still manufacturers that manufacture and sell it. Matsumaezuke is sold across Japan through a wide range of distribution channels, including department stores, roadside stations, local food fairs, and mail order. Recently, kits for making Matsumaezuke have become available, which allow you to make the tasty dish easily at home.

Main consumption method

Generally, Matsumaezuke is eaten as is as a snack with alcoholic beverages or with rice. Some shops sell Matsumaezuke containing a variety of foodstuffs, such as scallops, wasabi greens, and abalone. Matsumaezuke is used not only in Japanese dishes, such as rice with green tea, but also in Western-style dishes, such as pasta and omelets. The marinade of Matsumaezuke may also be used as soup stock that serves as a secret ingredient in dishes.

At-home recipes：Cold tofu topped with Matsumaezuke

Ingredients

Matsumaezuke

100 g

Fine-grained tofu

1/2 block

Fresh leaves of Japanese pepper

As needed

How to make

Cut Matsumaezuke into bite-sized pieces and cut tofu in half

Put the tofu in a dish, top it with Matsumaezuke, and garnish with fresh leaves of Japanese pepper.