Benigaki no Hoshigaki - Traditional Foods in Japan | Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries

YamagataBenigaki no Hoshigaki

Classification (Large)

Agricultural products

Classification (Small)

Other processed agricultural products

Main ingredients used

Benigaki

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Region of inheritance

Kaminoyama City

Product overview (special characteristics and types)

Benigaki is a type of persimmon native to Kaminoyama City, Yamagata Prefecture, where the original tree still stands. As the Japanese name suggests, Benigaki ("red persimmon") is an intensely astringent persimmon that turns bright reddish orange. The astringency, which is so intense that it is hard to remove by normal processing, is dissipated through exposure to sunlight and the cold Zao-oroshi mountain wind, transforming Benigaki into a dried red persimmon (Benigaki no Hoshigaki) with a moist texture as well as a gentle but rich sweetness. Also known as a "natural Japanese sweet," this Kamiyama specialty has been grown and produced for more than 300 years.
The harvest season begins in early November. Then, for about a month, countless dried persimmons are hung like orange curtains in drying areas that receive moderate sunlight and Zao-oroshi wind while avoiding exposure to rain. This view is the signature of early winter in Kamiyama.

History and culture

Benigaki’s origin can be traced to a wild astringent persimmon tree that bore fruit in the garden of Kawaguchi Kyuemon, a family native to the former Kamisekine Village (the present Kamiyama City) in 1748. Because of its bright, reddish-orange flesh and excellent taste, it was grafted onto nearby persimmon trees. People liked to consume the fruits as tsurushi-gaki, which became a local specialty. In the Tempo Period, the persimmon was called Sekinegaki after the name of the area, and had already become such a famous specialty that its name appeared in the Kaminoyama Meisan Meisho Banzuke. The original tree, which is said to be the second or third generation, still stands in the Kawaguchi family’s backyard.
Compared to Shonaigaki, a flat and core-less variety of persimmon that is commonly produced in the prefecture, Benigaki has more fibers, making it suitable as a dried persimmon. Although Benigaki’s production volume is much smaller than that of Shonaigaki, it is grown in large quantities to make dried persimmons in Kaminoyama City and other areas in the southern part of the prefecture. A 32-piece box of small dried Benigaki strung together is a popular gift.

Production method

The branch over a persimmon is cut into a T-shape in order to tie a string for hanging the peeled persimmon. To protect the fruits from the rain, they are hung in a covered drying area called haze for about two weeks. Exposure to Zao-oroshi wind and sunlight helps remove the persimmons’ astringency and makes them sweeter. The fruits are then dried by fire in an indoor facility called a muro for several days. If applicable, sulfur fumigation for antioxidation, anti-mold, and sterilization purposes is performed at this time, and the persimmons are exposed to the open air for a few days before being brought back indoors. Next, the dried persimmons are individually rubbed and scrubbed. This promotes the emergence of a white powder, which is sugar crystal. After about a week of drying indoors, the persimmons begin to develop the white powder. Then, small dried persimmons are grouped into sets of 32 and blown with an electric fan to adjust the moisture content before finally being prepared for shipment.

Conservation and succession efforts

Around December, dried Benigaki becomes available at supermarkets and farmers markets as well as online, where pre-ordering is possible. Some households still make dried persimmons at home.

Main consumption method

For a tea snack, dried Benigaki can be eaten as is. Simply cut it with a knife to enjoy the firm texture that resembles yokan red bean jelly, or lightly rub it with your hands to further loosen the fiber to achieve a moist textured red bean paste.
It is sometimes added to salads or cooked to make kaki namasu, a traditional New Year’s dish.

At-home recipes：Dried persimmons with cream cheese

Ingredients

Benigaki no Hoshigaki

2 pcs

Cream cheese

50g

How to make

Finely chop the dried persimmons. Cut the cream cheese into 1-cm cubes.

Lightly dress the above and serve.