Ishiri / Ishiru - Traditional Foods in Japan | Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries

IshikawaIshiri / Ishiru

Classification (Large)

Agricultural products

Classification (Small)

Soy sauce, miso, other seasonings

Main ingredients used

squid, sardines

When using downloaded images, please read the "Terms of Use" and clearly state that the source of the image is "Traditional Foods in Japan" by the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries.
If the photo credits is stated, please include it as well.

Example of description
of the photo credits

Example of description when the photo credits is not stated
Source: "Traditional Foods in Japan" Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries Example of description when the photo credits is stated
Source: "Traditional Foods in Japan" Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries
Photo credits:xxx

Agree to "Term of use"
and download images
(206KB)

Region of inheritance

Noto region

Product overview (special characteristics and types)

Ishiru is one of the three great fish sauces of Japan, traditionally made in the Noto region. There is ishiru made from sardines and the bones and entrails of mackerel, and ishiri made from squid entrails. Both are claimed to have been born from the everyday wisdom that says not to let bones or entrails go to waste. The sauce is generally saltier due to its higher sodium content compared to soy sauce, but as it contains a rich amount of [total free amino acids] which create umami, the concentrated umami of marine ingredients makes it delicious. As a result, the sauce goes well with any food ingredient and is used as a secret ingredient in various dishes. As there is an abundance of fresh squid caught at Noto Town, it is common to see ingredient procurement, manufacturing, processing, and sales all conducted by one producer.

History and culture

Although the origin of this sauce is not clear, it is believed to have been made in the late 1700s. It is said the fish sauce started with the fermented broth obtained from the salted entrails of the large hauls of squid caught at Ushitsu Port when processed. As for the etymology of its name, fish were called io or i in ancient times, and this is said to have changed from io-shiru (fish broth) to ishiru and ishiri. In the past, mountain villages with poor transportation would use ishiru as an alternative to fish, which were hard to obtain, and at times exchanged it for rice.

Production method

Ishiru uses whole sardines, which are salted and kept in vats to sit for approximately six months to a year. Ishiri uses squid, which has more visceral fat than sardines. Less salt is added and it is kept in vats to sit for approximately two years. The ishiru/ishiri produced in this way accumulates at the bottom of the vats. The bottom of each vat is uncorked to remove the liquid, which is boiled, filtered, cooled, and bottled. Adding salt prevents the proliferation of putrefactive bacteria and breaks down fish protein for natural fermentation. Usually, products are prepared from late fall to early winter and are ready in late summer to early fall of the next year, but in Noto Town, it is matured for another one to two years to create a more mellow flavor.

Conservation and succession efforts

Consumption of fish sauce has declined in recent years due to the common use of soy sauce made from grains. Furthermore, it is difficult for people outside of the region to become familiar with the products, and the aging population of producers is also seen as an issue. Thus, local producers and the Chamber of Commerce have launched the [Noto Ishiru/Ishiri Producers Council], which engages in diverse activities, such as sharing ishiru history and recipes, and developing new dishes using ishiru at local restaurants. In addition, in 2023, the manufacturing techniques of Noto ishiru/ishiri have been registered as an Intangible Folk Cultural Asset.

Main consumption method

This fish sauce can be used as dipping sauce for sashimi or lightly pickled vegetables, ishiru grilled shellfish, simmered seafood, hotpots, grilled dishes, or diluted with water for ishiri-zuke of pickled cucumbers or daikon radish. Recently, it is said that the products are also being used as secret ingredients in French and Italian cuisine. Although some people dislike its characteristic scent, adding acidic content, such as tomato or lemon juice, is said to neutralize the odor.

At-home recipes：Seafood pasta flavored with ishiri/ishiru

Ingredients

Ishiri

2 tablespoons

Pasta (1.8 mm)

240 g

Garlic

1 clove

Olive oil

1 tablespoon

Maitake mushroom

1 pack

Seafood mix

100 g

Butter (containing salt)

20 g

Salt and cracked black pepper

As needed

Green onion (cut into small pieces)

As needed

How to make

Boil pasta to al dente, timing it carefully. Cut garlic into thin slices and break maitake mushroom into smaller bunches.

Put the garlic and olive oil in a pan and heat them over low heat. When the garlic becomes aromatic, add and cook the maitake mushroom and seafood mix, and season them with salt and cracked black pepper.

Add the boiled pasta, cook the ingredients in the pan to coat the pasta in the other ingredients, add butter and ishiri, and stir the whole pan.

Put the pasta and sauce in a dish and sprinkle green onion over it.